A Tale of Two Pizzas
February 25, 2010
I have a confession to make.
I’ve been a lousy neighbor.
At least I have been in some respects.
In 2009, I ate at the Wynn Buffet upwards of a dozen times, Paris a dozen more, the Bellagio probably ten times, Aria 3 times (not bad for two weeks of existence), the Stratosphere a handful of times, and I won’t even attempt to count the times I’ve dropped $7 in the Sahara Buffet after jumping off the Monorail and walking home.
Although I have lived in slightly-off-strip neighborhoods for about five years, when I look back at my expenditures, over half of my disposable income was spent in a major Strip property or in the area surrounding Fremont Street. I’ve never bought into the “I avoid tourist areas” mentality that many locals have adopted. Instead, I have embraced said areas. Hell, that’s one of the reasons I moved here … to avail myself of the unique attributes of Las Vegas. Anyone who moves to Vegas and avoids Las Vegas Boulevard is kind of a moron in my book.
Why in the hell else would you move here if not for the casinos? What else is there?
Culture?
The fabulous hell-like Death Valley climate?
The fantastic schools?
Face it, without The Strip and Downtown, Las Vegas is Albuquerque. Just another desert shithole.
While I try to maintain a pretty decent balance between resident and perpetual tourist, if I were to err on one side or the other, it would probably be the latter. I’m certainly a resident, but I may also be the most prolific tourist this town has ever seen. I’m an asset to the mega-corporations, but I’m not as big of an asset to my neighbors.
Instead of supporting local businesses and helping to keep them solvent, I’ve remained obsessively committed to throwing dollar-after-dollar at the corporate overlords who could not give a rat’s ass about Las Vegas or the people in it.
It is for this reason that I have made a concerted effort in 2010 to think globally, and eat locally. If you’ve been onboard for more than a month, you may have noticed that I have been branching out into smaller, near-strip, non-large-chain restaurants as of late. Pop’s, The Mad Greek, Hash House, Metro Pizza, Naked City Sandwich …. this is not a mistake or a coincidence … it is a conscious effort to drag myself away from the buffet status-quo and evaluate places that I have ignored for damn near a decade.
Be they smaller places inside of casinos, or independent joints in the neighborhood, I have decided to expand my horizons this year and eat my way through the “Real Las Vegas”. You know, real food accessible to real people on real budgets. Places which are unlikely to have 800 reviews on travel websites.
Of course, the closer to Rexville any of these places are, the better. Especially if they are good. I’m a pretty loyal customer, so good eating joints close to my own home will almost certainly get a large amount of my business while cutting down on my own travel time substantially.
Last night, I got a craving for Pizza, and the first place that sprang into mind was Metro Pizza. It’s about as good as they come in Vegas, but the closest location to me … Ellis Island … means that I sometimes have to nuke it by the time I get home. It also means that I have to participate in my least favorite activity. Driving.
While I really like Metro Pizza, I do have a problem with their business and civic philosophy. They have a location in Henderson, a location in Boulder Station, a location in Ellis Island, a location one mile west of the Palms, a location near UNLV, but they have completely abandoned the inner-city. They don’t even have a single location within the Las Vegas city limits. Because of this, I would like to find someone else to support financially, if only they could approach the same quality.
The notion that one should have to drive to the suburbs for a good slice of pizza seems decidedly … backward.
After I wrote an article about Metro Pizza last month, I was inundated with “have you tried XXX?” emails. I looked up some of the locations of the places that people were recommending, and there was not a single restaurant within walking distance, not just of my neighborhood, but to any neighborhood anywhere. They were all drive-or-nothing propositions. Because of this, I had tried very few of the places. I’m simply not going to drive 45 minutes round trip just to eat pizza. I grew up walking to carry-out restaurants, and the notion of driving such lengths simply to eat is patently absurd. If you have a favorite restaurant in Las Vegas, and that restaurant is more than 2 miles from Las Vegas Boulevard, the chances that I have eaten there are slim. If I wanted to hang out in Albuquerque, I would have moved to Albuquerque.
Rexville is, unfortunately, somewhat deficient in pizza joints. We do have one popular place called “Boston Pizza”, and the place is okay, but nothing that I would consider out of the ordinary. The location is excellent, but the pizza is more or less what you will find in any strip mall across America.
Albo Pizza is a different animal.
Albo Pizza in Rexville
Albo Pizza in Rexville
Albo Pizza in Rexville
Albo Pizza in Rexville
Sitting directly adjacent to Dino’s, this joint opened roughly one year ago, and they have been faithfully serving food to the residents of Rexville since that time.
I’ve gotten a menu from Albo on several occasions, and given the diversity of said menu, I had assumed Albo would not make terribly good pizza. They just offered way too much other non-pizza food. Generally, restaurants which offer too many dishes are jacks of all trades, masters of none.
Fortunately, this is not the case with Albo. I’ve grabbed slices from the restaurant here and there, but last night represents the first time I have ordered an entire pie.
Inside of Albo Pizza
Inside of Albo Pizza
Inside of Albo Pizza
I called the number on the menu, and a very friendly gentleman answered and took my order. When I walked over to pick up the pie, I was a little disappointed to find the place empty. I talked to the owner for a couple of minutes, and he explained that the economy was taking its toll on the new business. I don’t suppose this is surprising, but since most businesses take a few years to get in the black, it’s not necessarily a terrible omen.
Upon getting home and opening the box, I was quite pleased at the look and smell of the pie. Albo’s “large” pizza is a full 18″, not unlike my … well, you know the drill … and they didn’t skimp on the toppings either.
Albo's 18" pepperoni and black olives pizza
The taste and quality of the food also made me wonder why I didn’t order from here more often. I think it’s because I had always gotten a slice on the run before, and had never really stopped and paid attention to what I was eating.
Albo Pizza is hard to neatly categorize. It’s certainly not thick and bready like Chicago-style pizza, nor is it super thin like New York-style. In a way, it almost reminds me of DC-style pizza, although it’s not quite that either. It’s a medium crust pie with plenty of sauce, cheese, toppings, all of which seem to be decidedly good quality. It all comes together very well, and it’s a very satisfying and somewhat distinct pizza.
Color me impressed.
A real pizzeria in Rexville has officially arrived. At least one I can personally get into.
Now, when the urge hits, I don’t have to travel quite so far for a good pizza. Instead of hopping into the car and driving to Ellis Island every time, I will now have a walking option.
Metro Pizza at Ellis Island
While I would not call Albo a direct competitor to Metro (it’s a different taste altogether), it will be something that I can see myself craving on a routine basis. For this reason, I sincerely hope that Albo Pizza is able to weather the economic downturn and thrive. I will do whatever I can to make this happen. If it requires me eating at the Wynn Buffet a few less times during the year, I will make a concerted effort to do so. I will finally try to be a better neighbor.
If you happen to find yourself in the Rexville area at any point in the future, maybe consider doing the same.
Albo Pizza is certainly well above average, and absolutely worth the trip when you tire of the standard food court/buffet fare.
It’s a real pizza joint in a real neighborhood — and in Las Vegas, this makes it a rare find indeed.
Written by Disco Stu on February 25, 2010 at 1:11 am
“Have you tried XXX?”
Yes. Yes I have.
Written by ColinFromLasVegas on February 25, 2010 at 1:20 am
You got it, Rex. I’ll make a point to stop there this weekend and get one to go. I always enjoy a good takeout pizza. And the picture you posted of their product looks good.
This place is pretty much like the local pizza joint I like to go to. I buy a pizza once in a while, not only because it’s good, but also to keep them going with business. To hell with them chain ones like Pizza Hut, Dominos and Papa Johns.
I don’t like it when the little guy loses and their hard worked for business folds up. It’s not fair. It should be the big money bags douchebags that should fail on a regular basis.
I’m just a bit confused though, Rex. I can kinda figure out the general location is from your pictures, but can you give me where it’s at in relation to a cross street or some kind of other landmark?
Written by mike_ch on February 25, 2010 at 1:49 am
Actually, Strip restaurants ARE local dining.
When you spend your money in Strip restaurants, you are keeping your money in Las Vegas more than if you were eating at the TGI Friday’s in Henderson.
Written by mike_ch on February 25, 2010 at 1:59 am
By the way, the one I’d mention is Uncle Joe’s Pizza on Fremont East, just next to the Griffin Bar.
I’m not so hungry for just a pizza (if I was, I’d go to a buffet and have a drink and dessert with it for about the same price or less), but I have gone by and it is easily the most “urban” looking non-chain pizza on the street. By which I mean, it comes closest to that New York tradition of a tiny Hole In The Wall location that would be completely ignored by us small-town/suburb folk who are used to a restaurant having an entire building to itself.
Written by J. Louise on February 25, 2010 at 2:51 am
Great article, Rex. When I lived in Vegas, I also frequented the Strip/Downtown restaurants, because I felt that those two areas were the highlights of living in Las Vegas.
One of my favorite near-strip eateries was Capriotti’s Sandwich Shop. The Bobbie is great–made with thanksgiving ingredients. It may not sound appetizing, but the taste is amazing.
I liked the review of Hash House A Go Go and would definitely go there–at a slow time of day!
Written by Duque12 on February 25, 2010 at 2:55 am
Rex,
Found your site recently and really enjoy it. I’m just a tourist but if one can actually love a place they visit twice a year, I do. I hope to retire in Vegas one day although my family and friends think I’m crazy. Honestly, Florida or some other golf invested state doesn’t really appeal to me. With that being said, as if you’d like to hear my plans 15 years from now, I’m have a question. A large group of us are coming from Michigan on St. Patrick’s Day. We’ll arrive at the hotel about 8, be ready to roll about 9. What would you suggest for a more festive time; downtown or the strip? I thank you for your consideration.
Written by philipj on February 25, 2010 at 3:07 am
I am glad you are discovering the local eateries. I refuse to make appointments, hard dates or over plan. When we are on the road I will stop at any tavern or local non chain joints. Since I probably have never eaten there, I always ask the waitress ” If your Dad(ok you can use most favorite Stallion) were to eat with me, what would you get for him?” I have wound up with some really good meals that I would otherwise never ordered.
On vacation last summer we did journey to village of Gay, for a bar there. I was going to send you a “I did the Gay Bar” but they were out of tee shirts. It is in the UP on Lake Superior. I knew you would wear it, well traveled devil that you are…
Written by Ron from MI on February 25, 2010 at 4:50 am
Rex-
I think since you had a good bite at Metro (the pizza place at Ellis Island,) it seems you’re staring to have an addictive craving for locally made pizza, including in “Rexville.” I think you’re getting sick of buffets and want alternatives. Las Vegas, in many ways, has a lot of good finds…..even if it’s not popular.
“I’ve never bought into the “I avoid tourist areas” mentality that many locals have adopted. Instead, I have embraced said areas. Hell, that’s one of the reasons I moved here … to avail myself of the unique attributes of Las Vegas. Anyone who moves to Vegas and avoids Las Vegas Boulevard is kind of a moron in my book.”
Just before the economy fell flat, I wanted to move to Vegas for that same reason: to get to know its positives as well as its negatives, and to find stuff in areas off the Strip that are often overlooked, yet still have a somewhat loyalty to the Strip. I think when locals strike up that “no-go to Strip” mentality, it’s probably because it could be their former or current workplace they’re standing in; sorta like a person who works in a fast food or chain restaurant: they deal with so much stuff on the job, they don’t want to stay long and just head home for the day. Just a guess, but it could be a good reason why most don’t venture out to the Strip.
“On vacation last summer we did journey to village of Gay, for a bar there. I was going to send you a “I did the Gay Bar” but they were out of tee shirts. It is in the UP on Lake Superior. I knew you would wear it, well traveled devil that you are…”
There’s indeed a place in the UP called Gay. It’s local bar is a little place with a small neon sign out in front that simply says BAR; looks just like any tavern in areas around the UP and northern Lower Michigan; the neighborhood does NOT look like West Hollywood or Greenwich Village though (and they don’t fly the Rainbow Flag either.)
Written by wrxrob on February 25, 2010 at 5:57 am
My rule of thumb is….. If the restaurant is publicly traded on the stock market, I try not to eat there. Once a company is publicly traded, quality takes a back seat to pleasing shareholders.
Even if it’s a chain restaurant. Look at Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, and KFC. In the old days they were awesome. Now they are combined into a publicly traded company. Guess what.. They now suck.
Mark my words. If and when (the founder dies) Chick-Fil-A becomes publicly traded, their quality will go straight into the crapper.
Support your local Mom ‘n Pop eateries.
Written by aaron on February 25, 2010 at 10:04 am
haha…a lot of references to albuquerque in this one…is this because i was the one who kept asking about grimaldis in the last pizza blog?
Written by aaron on February 25, 2010 at 11:02 am
I find it interesting that you would take such offense to my recommendation of a restaurant. I only did so, because I have been a daily reader of you blog for nearly a year, and I knew you had spent time in New York. My dining at the restaurant connected an experience that I had enjoyed while I was in New York, to a recent trip to Las Vegas. In no way did I want to “inundate” you with this restaurant, but share an experience I thought would be insightful to you and your blog. Everyday I read your views and ideals of the city, and enjoy them. I wanted to share a really good pizza with you, and in no way did I expect to catch criticism of the city I live in because you traced my isp address. oh well
Written by Rex on February 25, 2010 at 3:27 pm
Aaron,
On an average day, I get several dozen emails. I don’t “trace” any of them. I do not have access to the IP address of blog commenters. I wouldn’t be able to trace them if I wanted to (and I wouldn’t want to since I have real shit to do). I didn’t have the slightest idea that you the lived in Albuquerque, and my comments about said city were in no way inspired by you personally.
I’ve been to Albuquerque, and much like the Vegas suburbs, I simply have no affinity for the place. Most desert towns are armpits.
I also was not complaining about the email I received. I appreciate them. I was simply was explaining why the answer to nearly every query was “no”. I don’t have time for several dozen personal email responses.
I wish I could anonymously open up my email box so people would get over the notion that I am always subtly addressing them personally. There really are a lot of common themes that lend themselves to mass-replying.
If one person says something, and I wish to respond, I address them directly. If 30 (or three hundred) people say something similar, I address them in aggregate. This is simply all that time allows.
Unless I specifically say “Hey, Aaron, fuck you and Albuquerque” (and I will say that if that is what I mean) chances are I am addressing a wider demographic.
Some people are convinced that I send them secret decoder messages through articles, but this is never the case. I use email (or comments) for individual replies.
I appreciated your comment about Grimaldi’s. Because of your suggestion, I will try it if I ever find myself near one. I doubt I will make the trip just for the pizza, but if I can kill a few birds with one stone, I absolutely will.
I wasn’t annoyed with anyone’s suggestions. I merely offered an explanation as to why I haven’t tried the places, and I explained the fact that I was disappointed that so many “good” pizza joints are located in strip malls well outside the city.
I stand by this, and it has nothing to do with you personally.
I don’t respond to every comment because I simply do not have the time, but I appreciate all of them and I absolutely keep them in mind.
Whether a comment has been positive, negative, flaming, or otherwise … I’ve never been offended by a single one of them.
Written by mike_ch on February 25, 2010 at 7:57 pm
Ron from MI,
The reason most locals don’t go to the Strip is that a lot of us drink alcohol, probably more of us proportionally than other medium-large cities, and the Strip charges out the ass for booze.
I don’t, and I eat downtown (which has much more character than the Stations and about as many good games) and on the Strip pretty frequently, though not as much as Rex. Part of that is distance, but another part of it is disposable income (I don’t have any.)
Written by RG on February 25, 2010 at 8:41 pm
Interesting tidbit about Albo’s-back in 1959 this building was a pizzeria. I can’t recall the name but if anyone has a late 1950′s to early 60′s phone book look up the address. Its true, its damn true
Written by cathy on February 25, 2010 at 10:48 pm
I’m from Albuquerque and don’t mind you comparing it to a desert armpit.
Thanks for your daily blog – makes me look forward to something.
Dion’s is “the” pizza place here in Albuquerque. My Mom used to call their special (everything) pizza a “garbage pizza”.
Written by aaron on February 26, 2010 at 12:13 am
cool, thanks rex…ill be out there in march…let’s grab a grimaldis!