Life is a Byway
October 19, 2009
My love/hate relationship with Las Vegas means that I get homesick quite a bit.
Frankly, I hate the desert with a passion, and were it not for the casinos, entertainment venues, the weird “character” that makes up Vegas, and a few other intangibles … I wouldn’t be here.
Save for the areas within three miles on either side of Las Vegas Boulevard, the Boulder Highway corridor, Sunrise Mountain, and a few choice neighborhoods scattered about … the Valley kind of sucks.
Hell, now that I’ve read that last sentence, I may make it my mayoral campaign slogan.
Aside from the neighborhoods that have been around for decades, Las Vegas is the world’s largest 7/11.
Strip mall, strip mall, gas station, wall, gate, wall, strip mall, porn rack, car dealership, strip mall, rinse and repeat.
I didn’t always live in this one spot. At one point I lived in the luxurious “Lakes” area on the West Side, and I could feel myself dying just a little bit each day. It was just awful. The best memory I have of the place is biking to Desert Breeze Park and paying $6 to see a Collective Soul gig.
Aside from that, the most interesting thing that happened was “a big truck went by”.
After escaping what can only be described as purgatory on Earth, I moved into a hi-rise one block from The MGM Grand, then moved to a location near the Las Vegas Convention Center, and finally landed in my current location.
Now, I’m not going to lie or try to polish a turd. My current neighborhood is an armpit … but it’s my favorite neighborhood of which I have lived in Vegas.
I have friends and acquaintances in all corners of the Valley whom I visit with some regularity, and I have personally sampled just about every type of residential setting offered here so that I have many frames of reference.
I know that this place isn’t for everyone, or even most people, but it’s the only place where people don’t look at me as if I’m a freak.
Don’t get me wrong, it can be a daunting and depressing place at times. I’ve put security measures in place at home, I club the Porsche steering wheel, and I’m always watching my back to the very real possibility of being forcibly robbed, but the exact same safety problems are had by people who live in such places as the East Village and they aren’t fleeing it.
There’s no free lunch, no place is perfect, and safety is far and away our Achilles’ heel. The area also looks like ass.
That being said, the location is damn hard to beat. 5 minutes to Fremont Street, 5 minutes to the Bellagio (traffic permitting), sub $10 cab rides to just about anywhere, one of the highest percentages of people who don’t drive to work, weirdos everywhere, plentiful mass transit, no HOA nonsense, and one of the strongest sense of neighborhood I have seen anywhere in the Southwest.
As much as I like the place, I still have to leave every now and then to maintain my own sanity. If you consider what I am now “sane”.
Anyone who is satisfied solely with what Las Vegas has to offer is not someone I would want to be around for more than two or three minutes … if that. You would have to be as easily amused as a newborn puppy and have the intellectual capacity of a grapefruit if you were mentally satiated solely with what lies within Clark County.
This is also the smallest city in which I have ever lived, and I get a bit starved for non-gaming stimuli at times. If you come from a small town, Vegas might hold your interest just fine for longer periods of time. If you’ve lived in New York, San Francisco, Chicago, or any other large city, you will feel claustrophobic. I can almost guarantee it. Vegas is every bit an island, we’re just surrounded by sand instead of water.
Las Vegas really is a place you have to leave on a periodic basis to appreciate. When you live here 24/7/365, it becomes easy to forget that there are actually people who exist in the world that know how to make change for a dollar, and who speak the dead language once known as “English”.
When I can’t get back to New York or DC, it’s not unusual for me to hop a quick flight to Seattle or Portland, even if it’s only for a 24 hour stay. This is just enough time out of the Southwest to purge the stench of death from my rotting soul.
A few days after coming back, I once again culminate a base level of hatred which slowly but steadily rises until I press the ‘reset’ button by leaving again.
The process sounds ridiculous, but it works for me.
Without fail, however, on the way back to Vegas, I always get eager when I first see the Valley lights in the distance. I’ve gotten good enough now that if we are landing on one of the “19” runways, I can pick out my home almost immediately (actually it’s not hard with such a huge landmark), and I’ve been known to excitedly point to the Stratosphere and say “Do you see that space needle building? I live under that thing!”
It sounds obnoxious, but after having to endure at least three “Vegas, Baby!”s or similar cliche’s per flight, I feel I’ve earned my 5 seconds of nuggetry.
When I grab a cab or get picked up from the terminal, I always breathe a little easier when I arrive back to my own little slice of crap.
It’s not much, but it’s home.
I do, however, wish it had a name.
“Naked City”, “The Arts District”, “Downtown”, “18b”, “Chapel Row”, “That s*thole near the Stratosphere” … we answer to many names chiefly because we have no consistent moniker to call our own.
The LVMPD considers everything north of Sahara Ave. to be “Downtown”, but the truth of the matter is that we are caught someplace in-between.
Were The Strip and Downtown to have a bastard lovechild, my neighborhood would be that offspring. We share vague characteristics of each, but we’re not quite either. We have an almost pathological lack of identity, and I hope that it is one day cured.
As a matter of fact, I am going to petition the City Council to have the entire area officially renamed to “Rexville”. I’m serious. I’ll let you know how that works out.
In any event, it appears that myself and my neighbors are not the only people who appreciate this urban/residential/industrial wasteland.
After nine years of lobbying, word has come that Las Vegas Boulevard between Sahara Ave. and Washington Blvd. (the northern end of Downtown) has officially been designated a “scenic byway”.
The Boulevard south of Sahara has already been designated a scenic byway for quite some time, and this move by the Federal Highway Administration now brings us into parity with the traditional Las Vegas Strip.
What does this mean?
The hell if I know, but it sounds cool.
The Administration was finally swayed because our 3 1/2 mile stretch of asphalt “has importance in Las Vegas’ development and the vintage neon on hotels and wedding chapels [makes] the boulevard one of America’s more unique streets.”
Is this nonsensical municipal marketing gibberish?
Of course it is, but screw it, it still sounds F’ing cool.
There is one tangible benefit, though.
Now that it’s official, the Neon Museum will stretch the vintage neon sign program from the Neon Boneyard all the way south to Sahara Ave. This means that I may very well get a really cool nightlight, and the neighborhood may eventually look slightly less foreboding to ice cream-loving Indian girls.
I’m not sure exactly which sign we are going to get on this end of the Boulevard, but I’m crossing my fingers for a marquee from an old brothel, or at the very least, a house of burlesque.
In any event, it’s nice to see the area getting a bit more recognition. Hopefully we’ll get a real name as well.
It’s still not a viable tourist destination. Crime is still too high and there isn’t all that much to do from a visitor’s perspective once you get here … but life is a series of small victories, and goddammit, this is one of them.
We’re finally on the freaking map.
Rexville represent!
Written by Bill Nye on October 20, 2009 at 4:32 am
A very special area, we live in the East but come to Las Vegas three or four times a year and especially for the marathon in December. We ‘walk’ as Elvis and have a great time especially noticing the varied neighborhoods that people call home and seem to love. It is home, they have to take you in. Life is good in the neighborhood!
Written by Terry on October 20, 2009 at 9:12 am
I’m enjoying the play on words in your titles. You definitely live in some sort of mish mash neighborhood which contains tourist attractions and local businesses, certainly an interesting place. This is my first comment here, but I read both your blogs and forums regularly. I don’t visit Las Vegas anymore but still gamble online occasionally. I found you accidentally a while back when doing a search for “Toni Braxton’s vagina”
– some of you will get that one, and I’ve been hooked since. It doesn’t matter what you write about, it can be about a piece of turd you stepped on, you manage to make it interesting and entertaining, sometimes even enlightening. Hey if you happen to become TimuktuRex I’d still read ya. I’ve noticed some copycats of your style, but that’s all they are – copycats. They try to take photos/videos like you, use your words, cuss, act edgy, but the substance is just not the same, they seem forced and ingenuine. Seriously, they can’t copy your natural talent. It doesn’t just take living in Las Vegas to become a Vegas writer. It’s like calling yourself a professional writer just b/c you know how to write, heck anyone grade 1 and up are professional writers in that case. I can cook for myself but I would never call myself a professional chef. Rex – you are by far my favorite online writer, there’s just no comparison. Thank you and keep it up! I may not comment much, but I’ll be reading. Oh, let us know which nightlight you end up w/ in Rexville. 
Written by Patricia on October 20, 2009 at 12:01 pm
Wasn’t Presidential Shave Shop in Caesars? My how the mighty have fallen.
Terry -
I thought I was the only one that didn’t go to Vegas anymore but read Rex’s blogs. I don’t read them because they are about Vegas, I read them because I like his writing. I agree that even if Rex were to go elsewhere and became TimuktuRex or SeattleRex or whatever, I’d still read him.
Written by Stacey on October 20, 2009 at 12:15 pm
Love the last Luv-It photo and am now curious about Record City. Probably not curious enough to visit on my next trip, though…I just picture multiple dusty Herb Alpert and the Tijuana Brass albums everywhere
Good news about the Boneyard signs. I think those are going to be such a great addition and starting them at Sahara might lead more people through Rexville into downtown.
Written by mike_ch on October 20, 2009 at 2:16 pm
I’m a bit late to comment as I myself have taken some time out of the desert near San Fran. The unemployment level is lower here, too, and so I can hope I won’t be back for a bit, but who knows.
I couldn’t live that close to the middle of everything, but I do like the area closer to the action: I wanted to leave Vegas for years, but since taking the looooong bus ride out to the area around the airport and UNLV, I find much more to like. I’ve jogged around the university once or twice and it’s a fun place to do so because there’s grass that isn’t perfectly manicured into the distance like Summerlin, there’s trees that are fairly old and aren’t always palm trees, there’s buildings that are visually interesting, if not stimuluating, and not just the endless ticky-tacky boxes in the burbs.
And once you get a bit further away from Summerlin, public transit becomes at least doable if not always comfortable. That box north of Summerlin Parkway and west of 95 is full of senior communities and super-upper class people who think that a bus stop brings the wrong kind of character to their street. “Can’t afford to drive a car? Don’t live here!”
But yeah, I pretty much fell out of love immediately with Vegas after meeting a Toronto friend who rides mass transit everywhere and goes to used music stores (in Vegas, Best Buy is actually considered a music store. Zia exists at least, but this guy is so hipster that he’d probably blow them off for being a chain.) I began reading more and more CityLife and Weekly articles about how we’re “not a real city” and “a phony place to live” and so on with enjoyment. There is little artistic value here, it’s probably dead last next to Phoenix on enjoyable living for bohemian lifestyles.
Today I now pretty much make no bones about “I don’t like living in Vegas,” (though I’d still try and get a job and lifestyle going there if I could) and nearly started a blog all about the subject (my prototype blog name was “Crapped Out”) until I found your site and all your complaining about the heat and the burbs and the lack of community and the need to own a car and all other things was basically cathartic enough that I didn’t really need to rant anymore. I’m not just alone in going crazy here.
However, recently I came to the conclusion that once the housing market foreclosure-mania stuff settles, we need to move. We live far, far away from where the jobs are; which is never a good thing, but also I think Vegas Drives You Crazy only the endless sprawling cul-de-sac burbs can really drive you all the way to hating it.
Written by Paddy O Furniture on October 20, 2009 at 2:41 pm
Drug dealers scratching you dog’s belly? How absolutely sweet. The real estate agent ought to get a photo of it and use it to market the properties in the area. I am sure that you would see a sudden infulx of hard-working and law-abiding citizens trading their heavily mortgaged houses to buy a piece of your little slice of heaven. And they could high-five each other every time they strolled over to the custard dump and back without purchasing illegal drugs, engaging the services of a prostitute, or getting assualted during their little outing. That’s another real marketing point to your neighborhood.
I am glad you have so energetically extolled the upside to living in your neighborhood. Your pride of ownership really draws my interest. I have been long searching for a place to raise my kids where we can make a little game out of seeing who can step over the most discarded condoms or how about a competitive game of who can spot the most hoes- the winner could be rewarded with a custard treat from that quaint little custard stand you are defending. In fact, my 6 year old daughter has become so bored with the everyday working stiffs we see at her bus stop that she has been begging me to show her a real live drug deal in progress. Except my inadequate and boring neighborhood of blue collar workers, accountants, and engineers cannot deliver this valuable life leason to her so I am excited that you have pointed out a place where I can get her exposed to this very important part of life in real terms. You are such a good advocate of your neighborhood that I feel I want you to force me at gunpoint to pay you a commission for letting me in on the secret- of course, after I get moved in. You could even help me find a place that will measure and fit my 6 year old and 3 year old for ballistic vests- now that would be a real service!
I am not sure anyone would buy a condo in Trump towers now that you have let loose the precious little secrets of living in a “real” neighborhood. I’m pulling my deposit right now and searching for a nice place around the Strat so I can join you in welcoming the giant neon boob sign you are so anxiusly anticipating. I am sure my property value will shoot higher than the Don’s tower.
Written by ColinFromLasVegas on October 20, 2009 at 2:47 pm
Nice article, Rex. I’m laughing because I was just at Record City today, stocking up on used DVDs and CDs. My monthly foray over there to Rexville for stuff. And here I look and your most recent post has a picture of where I was on East Sahara Avenue.
This is for Stacey (who posted above): You got it wrong. Sure, they have a lot of records (33 and a thirds) there at the purple building (Record City), but they also have an equal amount of used compact discs and DVDs. And it is an extensive selection. DVDs broken down to TV shows, drama/action, comedy, horror, sci fi and music. Walls are filled with them. CDs in bins broken down into pop/rock, jazz, blues, etc. This place is great, Stacey. And they have a great selection all the way from old stuff to even new stuff (if you get in there and catch it at the right time). I swear by this place because I collect DVDs and CDs and I usually find what I’m looking for there. And if you can’t find it there, they have another store that has a huge selection of stuff between Lamb and Nellis on Charleston.
To show you how popular it is, I went in one time and traded in some old compact discs. The lady there looked at one I traded in called “The Best of Cold Blood” (a 1970s brass rock band from San Francisco…traded it in because I have all their stuff on separate CDs). The lady behind the counter said, “Wow, you should have been in here an hour ago. Prince was looking for some compact discs by this group!” I laughed. Even the artist formally known as Prince has good taste in music and went there looking for old stuff.
The only draw back to this place, and you have to understand it is a used store, is that after you leave, make sure you wash your hands. Just the way it is with used stores.
Hope that helps, Stacey.
Written by Patricia on October 20, 2009 at 4:55 pm
LOL I just realized that I incorrectly spelled “TimbuktuRex” previously, that’s what I get for copypasting it instead of typing it out myself.
ColinFromLasVegas -
Cool story about Record City. Does Prince still live there?
Written by Amy on October 20, 2009 at 5:21 pm
Yeah, some people write blogs like they are writing a book report for school, booooring. Here’s a picture I took of the fountains, here’s one of a billboard, and another and another blah blah blah. Anyone with a camera can do that. It’s ok but very common. Rex on the other hand takes pictures of boobs in front of the fountains, boobs on a billboard, and more boobs lol just j/k Rex, you rock!! Keep on doing what you’re doing!
Life is a highway
I want to ride it all night long
If you’re going my way
I want to drive it all night long
Dammit, it’s stuck in my head!
Written by Paddy O Furniture on October 20, 2009 at 5:22 pm
Rex- I am waiting for my earlier comments to be posted. Are you engaged in censorship? I think you are because my comments ran afoul of your better than thou view of yourself and your “choice” of neighborhoods. Thanks for driving me away from ever reading your drool again.
Written by Rex on October 20, 2009 at 6:09 pm
Rex- I am waiting for my earlier comments to be posted. Are you engaged in censorship?
No, we don’t see any pending comments from you aside from the two that are already on this page.
Written by beth on October 20, 2009 at 7:25 pm
I rather enjoy reading about the lesser known areas of Vegas. I can read about the strip and downtown on most other blogs and if I wanted to read about someone writing about living in the suburbs, well what’s the point I live it. I guess I live vicariously through Rex’s blogs, no risk and all the fun! I don’t think he’s telling us it’s a great place to raise a family and that everyone should live there, he seems to be saying the contrary, it’s not for most but even if it looks like shit, it’s his piece of shit. Btw Rex, please keep up the neighborhood articles, so many areas of Las Vegas are never mentioned and you’re the only one that sheds any light on some of the lesser known neighborhoods. I learned more about “Rexville”, sunrise, nora, naked city, the other fremont etc from your blog than I have anywhere else. It’s appreciated, thanks.
Paddy O Furniture – Got a new username Ted? I don’t think Rex censors or moderates comments, I’ve read worse insults and even death threats toward Rex on his other site. You’re gonna have to do better than that. Get some pointers from Andrew
Written by ColinFromLasVegas on October 20, 2009 at 7:32 pm
For Patricia: I’m not sure if the artist formerly known as Prince lives here. I do know he had a concert awhile back at the Orleans or something. It might have been in his free time he went to Record City while he was in town for the concert.
I do know another artist originally from Minneapolis lives in the area though. Morris Day from the Time lives in Henderson. The Time plays in Las Vegas all the time.
Sorry, Rex. Just tryin’ to help out a little here. Of what very little I know.
Written by Patricia on October 20, 2009 at 7:57 pm
Thanks ColinFromLasVegas. Wow, Prince went from having his own club at the Rio to playing at the Orleans, geez. I remember Rex wrote something up about going to see Prince and Morris Day (separate concerts) and having a great time. I bet Rex has walked right past you especially if you hang out in his hood, and you didn’t even realize it.
Rex – They certainly should name that neighborhood Rexville after you b/c you more or less put it on the map. I’ve never read about that area anywhere else before, let alone that it is an actual neighborhood. Whether good or bad, you’ve given the place more exposure than anyone else out there and got people to take notice and talk about it.
Written by ColinFromLasVegas on October 22, 2009 at 5:36 am
Interesting timing of a story that just happened alongside yours, Rex. Not sure if you saw it, but in the news today, the Las Vegas Review Journal reported about a bunch of citizens (along with police officers too) recommended that a public telephone be removed from your neighborhood. Because it seemed to be the center for criminal activity.
At 1701 Las Vegas Boulevard, on the corner of Oakey and Las Vegas Boulevard, a public telephone was reputed to be the center of illegal activity alot, with criminals using this phone for drug buys and other stuff.
So, I guess that particular public phone was recently removed in Rexville due to the outcry from citizens there who want to make their neighborhood safer.
Glory Hallelujah! Your neighborhood is now safe! They removed that damn phone and criminal activity ceases! Umm….. Not sure if that happened. Maybe you can shed some light on that.
Written by Stacey on October 26, 2009 at 9:31 am
Colin,
Thanks for the info on Record City. Sounds like it might be of interest to me after all. And for the record, I’d be just as interested (if not more so) in vinyl over CDs.